Everyone has what I call a “fit issue” when it comes to clothes. My main obstacle is with length, or lack thereof. As the world’s longest torso holder, most dresses are like crop-tops on me. I am also a proud pear whose bottom half is two sizes larger than my top. Hopefully, you can now understand my love of high-waisted, flared pants of which balance out my hips and cover my arse in full.

 I have all of my coats, blazers and dresses tailored upon purchase (!) to shine the spotlight on my smaller waistline. In fact, when it comes to the game of flattery, it’s all about: 1. carving out a waist and 2. creating hourglass proportions. Be you a tall pear or a petite apple, you needn’t be a mathematician when it comes to the fit equation. It’s just a simple balancing act. Got broad shoulders and an ample bust? Skip the skinny jeans and opt for a trouser cut. Have a big butt and you cannot lie? Wear a lengthy boyfriend blazer and have it taken in at the waist to soften your curves. Feeling Dumpy? Belt that sweater and voilà you are instantly more svelte. We shall never hide in our clothes, and I recommend getting creative with your trompe l’oiel artistry.

 This week I have been working with my darling client, Lauren*, who at 6’ is a perfectly healthy size 12 hourglass shape. After several days of aimlessly searching for a 37” inseam pant, I can only imagine the frustration that Lauren feels every time she shops (or god forbid the dryer shrinks anything!). As her personal shopper I must “make it work” using every trick in The Style Trial Bible. I refuse to see her let down by what is currently available in the market place. Thankfully, the information superhighway has allowed people like you, me and Lauren to quickly search countless online catalogs** and sites for what suits us best. It is much easier to shop online than it is to try on 3 dozen pairs of pants and find only one that might work (as Lauren has done). What a super trooper my leggy Lauren is! Allow me to brief thee on the best in lengthy.

It’s Casual:

Tall gals are in need of length and width. Look for tailored pieces with hidden stretch to cover the bases and keep it crisp. No MK Olsen sloppy looks allowed; however, this doesn’t mean you have to dress boring. Opt for bold colors and one statement bauble at a time. Stay warm in a coat that hits just below the bum, any longer or shorter blows things out of proportion!

Sandra Ingrish Roll Sleeve Shirt with Side Ribbing, Sandraingrish.com

Gap Long & Lean jeans in Dark Wash, Gap.com

Lauren by Ralph Lauren Long Illusion Drop Necklace in Gold Long, Nordstrom.com

J.Crew Tall Double-Cloth Coat in Sea Salt, Jcrew.com

Work:

The key here is to keep the design very sleek and minimalist but play up color and texture. The busty tend to despise ruffles, bows and unnecessary added bulk (all of which I personally love). Talk about a no-frills policy! Go all out on funky flats instead.

 

J.Crew Tall Schoolboy Blazer in Heather Carbon, Jcrew.com

Semantiks Satin Loop Trim Blouse in Painted Blossom, Nordstrom.com

J.Crew Tall Favorite-Fit super 120's Durham Pant in Coal, Jcrew.com

French Sole "Wiffle" in Purple Suede, Zappos.com

Out & about:

This is the time to bust out your size 11 heels, shows off your gorgeous gams and shake what your momma gave ya. A wrap dress and fitted jacket flatters the midsection while black tights and (comfy) heels slim the leg.

Banana Republic Tall Twist Wrap Dress in Deep Fuschia, Bananarepublic.com

Banana Republic Tall Velvet Blazer in Black, Bananarepublic.com

Cole Haan Carma OT Air MJ in Black, Zappos.com

* Courteous name change.

** My recommendations for online retailers with Tall sizes: J.Crew, Banana Republic, Eddie Bauer, J.Jill, Ann Taylor and Gap. Also, Zappos has a user-friendly site to search for shoes by size, style, etc.

Electric Youth. Teen Magazine October 1988.

My obsession with fashion and beauty began something like this: played in mom’s closet at 4, not-so-secretly trimmed my own hair at 5, insisted upon sleeping in all of my new shoes at 6, wore white leather fringe boots to school at 7, bought first Teen magazine at 8, opened my first in-home retail “store” at 9 (so what if I never turned a profit?), switched to reading YM & knew all the lyrics to George Michael’s “Freedom 90” at 10… and the list goes all the way to 29! In all that time I always had a muse, model or It girl that I wanted to be just like. Some were models (Jordyn Blum, Yasmeen Ghauri, Linda Evangelista) and others were tv/film characters (Punky Brewster, Cindy Mancini, Chica).

Nowadays, my fondness for another’s style continues, but I’ve moved on to other fashion muses, each of whom represents a different facet of my overall look. There’s nothing cool about being a fashion copycat, but do use others for inspiration! Pick and choose your favorite fashionable elements and integrate them in to create your own signature style!

 Below are a few style setters whom I find most amusing.

Giovanna Battaglia

Now this is the kind of girl who likes to get dressed up for work. She may be the fashion editor of L’Uomo Vogue but she is more like a supermodel when she struts her European, high-fashion stuff to and from the runway shows. In essence, Giovanna has a job dressing really cute. And that’s what I’d like to be when I grow up.

Photo: The Sartorialist

Photo: The Sartorialist

Photo: The Sartorialist

The perfect look to keep warm for fall! Photo: The Sartorialist

Gorgous! Black heels and opaque tights are her signature!

Cold weather cool!

Jenna Lyons

As the creative director of the new and fashionably improved J.Crew, Jenna sets the standard for all things business/casual with her distinctive feminine-meets-masculine twist. Despite her 6′ stature, she only wears heels and uses herself as the  fit model for their “tall” sizing.  I immediately flip to Jenna’s Picks every month to see what she is currently “obsessing” over and often use it as my personal shopping guide. The C.E.O. of J.Crew hired Jenna after she arrived at a board meeting wearing one of  her signature high/low ensembles: cargo pants with high heels. She was instructed to design the likes of what she was wearing and the rest is creative history.

Photo: Brandon Perlman

Check out the black bedroom walls! Domino Magazine November 2008

Jenna's Picks October 2009, Available at J.Crew.com

Elle MacPherson

Though she was never my favorite supermodel, her street chic style soared once she turned her focus towards designing lingerie (and obviously being a cool mom as well). Her style is so appropriately unexpected. It’s a fusion of Jackie Onassis and eclectic boho surfer with an added trendy sophistication. She is difficult to define, yet so easily amusing.

Not your average school drop off.

Vibrant basics, undone hair, totally practical.

 [picapp src=”d/5/a/9/Elle_Macpherson_arrives_3538.jpg?adImageId=6160513&imageId=5962328″ width=”500″ height=”742″ /]

Can't take the surfer out of the lady.

This season's top trends- leather and distressed - reasonably interpreted.

There are some great faux fur options out these days, take it or leave it, but I still like it.

Margherita Missoni

This unofficial Missoni brand ambassador is the Italian It Girl. Though she is definitely a socialite most well known for her last name, she’s the anti-Paris Hilton in my book. Perhaps it’s the natural beauty alone that sets her apart from her contemporaries, but if I was a betting woman I’d say this budding fashion icon has the smarts to take on a new generation of Missoni in the years to come.

Always cute, fun and age appropriate.

High-waisted jeans are my thing so thanks for representing, Little Margaret.

Working the famous family prints, yet keeping it real.

Perfect alternative to the LBD. Simple silhouette in a stunning color and minimal makeup is all you need!

Perhaps you can overlook the headband and embrace the free-spirit fashion of which is my ultimate goal!

Naturally, I have countless other style inspirations, but these ladies have been appointed permanent judges on my supreme court of style. Having a style mentor is not only fun but helpful! If ever in a fashion conundrum I always ask myself, “What would Giovanna, Jenna, Elle or Margherita do?” and then I can immediately reach a verdict. Who are your style icons and how can I help incorporate elements of their fashion sense in with yours?

As daylight savings is quickly approaching, I thought it best to give you a quick preview of what to look forward to in 2010. The Spring/Summer runway shows have been in full swing and here are a few designers I am ruling in favor of thus far. Enjoy!

Chloé

Hannah MacGibbon stays true to the original “haute hippie” brand with patchwork denim, exaggerated proportions, flowing ponchos, sturdy sandals and light-as-a-feather fairy dresses all on a muted palette. And who doesn’t love the nod to Troop Beverly Hills? Afer all Phyllis Nefler did have a blackbelt in shopping.

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Jenny Packham

A seamless departure from bridal wear for this brilliant Brit. Her elegant draping and bold embellishments put a fresh take on old Hollywood glamour. Peach and lemon never looked so delicious.

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Valentino

Well known for their red carpet gowns, this legendary house serves up a  collection of cupcake-like dresses that are far more Frosted Funfetti than the traditional Red Velvet. Swirls and Twirls lighten up these frothy frocks. Treat yourself to seconds. And Thirds…

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Matthew Williamson

My all-time favorite never lets me down with his rainbow weave of color, prints and texture and all of their subtle aztec undertones. Though he can be eccentric, Matthew’s take on the metallica trend displays some street practicality i.e. the boyfriend blazer atop a shimmery mini. Ladies about town, take note.

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Marc Jacobs
He goes without mentioning, but I just had to. His design team’s masterful mix of patterned, billowing bottoms is sure to be a top trend of spring!

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Diane Von Furstenberg

The DVF formula: mix in equal parts wearable design, ethnic prints and sex appeal, then wrap in effortless chic. Sold!

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

RM Roland Mouret

You may not know his name but surely you have seen his signature style on nearly every starlet. Though his designs have rubbed off on the likes of Black Halo and Victoria Beckham, Roland will always remain the original. (And thank Gawd for more jumpsuits. It gives me hope that I might someday find one that fits!) Check out the bedazzling bibs too!

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Victoria Beckham
Though her name may be attached to another’s designs, the striking combination of 1940’s vintage Dior with the severe angles of the 1980’s is both regal and radical. Perhaps Posh is more than a wannabe.

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

SO much more to come! What are your designer picks for spring?

The change of seasons always blows a case of the S.A.D.’s my way. One way of overcoming this obstacle is my annual fall trip to visit Sister’s Familien in San Francisco. I always save up beforehand so I can shamelessly spoil my amazing nephews and also splurge at H&M, F21 and Wasteland. When in shopping heaven it is crucial to take a shopping list with you of things you know you don’t necessarily need but definitely want. This prevents you from ending up with junk that loses its luster once it can no longer shine under the blinding retail lights. As you are my witness, I promise to stick to my list, the whole list and nothing but my list, as listed below.

Sleek & slim-fitting motorcycle jacket.

Faux-Leather jacket, Forever21.com

1970’s secretary dresses that work perfectly with my uniform for fall (dresses+tights+boots).

Colorful and textured tights to compliment the above.

Any dress in the structured style of Victoria Beckam’s namesake new collection.

Victoria Beckham "Carmontelle" dress, Victoriabeckham.com

A classic trench (I know I already have one, but it’s way too big and the last thing the world needs is a  “boyfriend trench” trend).

Breakfast at Tiffany's

I’d love to put a pair of cropped zoot trousers on trial (Sister may object!).

Photo courtesy of The Sartorialist

If for any reason that search comes up empty I am allowed to venture to J.Crew to drool over Jenna’s Picks and also the gigantic Macy’s to scout out the new & highly improved Liz Claiborne section.

What are your plans for the fall transition?